Chiang Mai: Here comes that dream
Too late for Thailand? Is there anything left to discover? What if there is no unbeaten path to take? These were the questions haunting me, thanks to my friend’s endless Facebook posts. So here I am, standing outside Chiang Mai airport, still lovesick from Ha Long Bay. Let's see if this place has any cure for me!
Grab the uber, drop the luggage and hit the streets! This night ain’t gonna wait.
Entering Siam - Kingdom of Thailand. Imagine a rectangle of history, walled in and surrounded by a moat. That’s Chiang Mai Old Town. Built back in the 13th century, it’s a time capsule of the past. But don’t let that fool you. This place is alive and kicking. Night markets, street food, and all the good, bad, and downright crazy decisions – it’s all here.
Say hello to Somkid, my ride, my guide and soon to be drinking buddy! Somewhere along the tonight I make him an offer to stick by me until the end and the dude just nods yes. No questions asked! Ok buckle up, this is more of a layover than a vacation! A lot will happen in very short time. It’s time to eat, first stop: Street vendors near the old city’s north gate, first meal Kao Ka Moo, stewed pork leg. This delicious meat is cooked in a master sauce most likely aging back a generation! Add in some pickled mustard, it is game over. Following the crowd sometimes could work out and then the locals start passing strange condiments, Thai chili and garlic? What can go wrong? Turns out a whole lot! Shit! There is a firestorm in my mouth! Pain! Mayday! Mayday! I need something cold fast!
In search of an oasis, we stumble into a small, dimly lit bar tucked away in the roadside. A place with the promise of Singha beer, Thai sausage (Sai Ua) and grilled meat.. the holy trinity of Thai food. Listen carefully, this sausage is a revelation, a work of art, Packed with flavors, it's like a party in your mouth and all the flavors showed up! This evening is turning out to be a damn good one!
Ask a Bangkokian about Chiang Mai, and they'll tell you it's a place of friendly folks with a laid-back vibe. I think I know why. So, I thought beer was enough to cool my mouth for all that spicy affairs. But no, these kind folks offer me some rice whiskey. Meet my new friend Lao Khao, the local elixir, straight from the backyard. A drink of the people, by the people and always available behind the counter. Strong stuff. Like drinking liquid fire. I think it’s time to move on while I still can.
Next up: the night market, here we go. Piles of souvenirs, fabrics and crafts but I’m not here for that! I prefer, darts, beer, snooker, air gun, grilled Scorpion, Muay Thai, beer, Mango sticky rice and some water to keep the kidney going. Somkid by now knows the drill! It is well over midnight and I must have forgotten all roads leads here! Where may you ask? the local lady boy cabaret. Strictly to Honor the local culture, When in Rome! Especially when the eras tour is in town. How much do the tickets cost? Mandatory two drinks at the bar! What happens next? Words can’t do it justice. Let’s just say I was on my feet and may have sang along! Alright, enough is enough, time to call it a night. One last meal of delightful salted meats, rice with midnight nam prik noom. Now I can lull myself into peaceful sleep.
Day 2,
After a swiftie night like last one, I need something special to set things straight again!
Time for a story! Few years ago, a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco turned into a Thanksgiving pilgrimage. We pulled into Bend, Oregon, and stumbled upon the “Wild Rose Northern Thai”. A beacon of hope in a sea of closed restaurants. That's where I first tasted the magic of Northern Thai cuisine and ever since, I've been dreaming to find the source of this Khao Soi river!
The place I’m heading today, as they say! Could possibly be the head of this river. An open kitchen, I see the chef swirling a hot pot of boiling and bubbling broth full of goodness. I’m thinking, let’s stick this golden concoction straight to my veins and next stop: flavor town! let me introduce you to Khao Soi, the star dish of Northern Thailand. Rich coconut broth with egg noodles, spices and crunchy noodles on top, it’s a symphony of flavors, pure bliss! I'm not sure if I'm eating or drinking, but I don't care. Oh yeah! Burning but We’re so fucking back!
It is a popular belief no visit to Chiang Mai is complete without a journey up Doi Suthep, the road up is a rollercoaster ride, twisting and turning through lush green forests. Every now and then, you get a glimpse of the city below and then you reach the summit. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a golden pagoda perched on a mountaintop with intricate carvings and a serene atmosphere, utterly beautiful! A world away from the chaos of the city. Alright, let’s get this straight here. Whoever’s writing my script – God, AI, or some alien overlord – I’m saying thanks. This episode? Has been a masterpiece. And I’m honored to be a part of it. P.S. Love you mom and dad.
Back on the road, Last stop: Him Tang in Mae on village! Life's a gamble and I’m in one right now! facing a dilemma: Regret eating it or regret not eating it. I don’t see any silver lining here! But fuck it, always go for Maximum fun, all-in, gusto! I’m talking about the raw pork blood soup, I repeat RAW! Not cooked or jellied. Just regular warm blood mixed with fried innards. Plus, smoked pig tail and don’t forget the baked pig brain! This isn’t some Twilight movie bullshit! This is the real deal! and to muster some courage and wash it all down, we've got Lao Khao and Singha! But here's the kicker the soup tastes pretty damn good. no gamey smell! And the brain? Delicious, forget the scrambled eggs! The tail is as good as I expected. This is why they love pork up here. Watch out, world. There's a new pork loving vampire in town.
And Just like that my time here has come to an end, like always it’s time to face the reality or in this case, the airport.
As we rolled back to the airport, I could see Somkid gathering up his thoughts, like a boxer sizing up his opponent. He finally let loose, a heartfelt tribute to our adventures. 'Good luck coming back,' he said, his voice filled with both sincerity and a hint of resignation. It was a bittersweet farewell.
Back in the airport trying hard to collect my own thoughts, All I can say is, I came here for the unknown! And it paid off! “Contrast?” It's the spice of life, baby. Whether in work of art or life, without it, you're just staring at a blank canvas. Vietnam and Chiang Mai? This is a whole new spectrum of human existence for me. I've felt things I didn't know I could feel, tasted food I never thought existed. It has opened me up and now, I'm hungry for more.